Characteristics Of A Classic Chanel Jacket

Essentials Of Classic Chanel Jacket

What are the characteristics of a classic Chanel jacket? For each season, Chanel designs several jackets. Many of them are trendy & fashionable because Chanel is a fashion house, after all.

But, every season, Chanel puts out at least one iteration of its classic, iconic original tweed jacket, as it was designed by Coco Chanel herself. Look for these 9 markers when hunting for a classic Chanel jacket.

  • Wool tweed fabric
  • Multi-panel construction
  • Silk lining
  • The chain at the interior bottom
  • Round neckline, no collar
  • Four pockets
  • Four or Five Front Buttons
  • Woven trim details
  • Beautiful buttons that tell a story
  • Made in France

These design elements are consistent, year after year, and they are impossible to miss. Let’s take a deep dive into it.

Wool Tweed Fabric

A woven wool or wool blend tweed is the default fabric for a classic Chanel jacket. This material is not only comfortable and versatile, but it also provides structure and warmth, making it perfect for transitional seasons.

The tweeds may be of different weaves and textures like boucle or have metallic threads.

Classic Chanel Jacket

Multi Panel Construction

The interior of a Chanel jacket is absolutely fascinating if you know anything about sewing. Classic Chanel jackets have multi panels sewn together for the perfect drape.

Each part, like the back, front, and sleeves, is made of multiple panels or strips of fabric. This makes it very easy to alter the jackets to your exact body so you can get a couture fit without a couture price.

Multi panel construction of a classic Chanel jacket

100% Silk Lining

Chanel almost always uses silk for the lining. Classic jackets are no exception. Chanel does and has put out unlined jackets for summer collections, but those are an exception, not a rule.

You may come across a few that have 5% of spandex or other modifiers, but it’s mostly silk lining.

Chain At The Bottom

The chain finish always matches the metal color of the buttons. So gold buttons outside mean gold chains inside.

The purpose of the chain is to add weight to the bottom so the jacket lays beautifully on the body. Some of the lighter jackets, like this fantasy tweed jacket, don’t have a chain, but those are not classics, in my opinion.

Details of red chanel jacket

Round Neckline & Absence Of A Collar

Yes, you will come across many jackets with V-shaped necklines or off-shoulder necklines, but a classic Chanel will always have a rounded, semi-circle neckline.

A classic Chanel jacket has no collar. That does not mean that a collared Chanel jacket is less desirable. The absence of a collar has been a consistent design element in Chanel jackets for many decades now.

Four pockets with buttons on top chanel jackets

Four Pockets With Buttons On Top

Sure, you will see many 0-pocket, 2-pocket, or 3-pocket jackets, but a classic Chanel jacket has 4 pockets. There is always a button at the top of the pocket. You will NEVER come across a button that is just decorative.

Chanel Jacket with Four or Five Buttons

Four or Five Buttons For Fastening

Classic Chanel jackets have 4 or 5 buttons to fasten the front. These buttons are slightly larger versions of the buttons on the sleeves and pockets.

Chanel Egypt Tweed Jacket

Woven Trim Detail

Chanel goes to great lengths to craft the most beautiful, ornate trims. The trim is usually around the front, on the top of the pockets, and on the sleeves.

Look at this beautiful trim on this Chanel Egypt jacket

Braided Detail and Gold Thread

Beautiful Buttons That Tell A Story

This is a universal element on all Chanel jackets, so it’s not specific to classics, but nonetheless, it deserved mention.

Chanel will use small elements that are historical to the brand, like a lion head or quilted buttons, to mimic the Cuba jacket

Buttons on Chanel jacket

Made In France

Chanel makes plenty of clothing items each season in Italy, but the classic tweed jacket is always made in France.

It’s almost like a rule that they have but doesn’t explicitly say, but they always stick to the country of their brand origin for their iconic, classic pieces.

Chanel jacket size tag
Made in France

Final Thoughts

Many characteristics of a classic Chanel jacket overlap the more seasonal jackets as well. Chanel jackets are timeless, classic, and iconic. Make sure you take good care of them so you can enjoy them for years to come.

If you are interested in learning more about Chanel jackets, I highly recommend watching a few videos by Susan Khalje. She is a master at making French jackets.

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